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Chapter 04 · The Cookbook
Groninger eierbal with mustard ragout

Starter · Year-round

Groninger eierbal with mustard ragout

A hard-boiled egg wrapped in thick spiced ragout, breaded, and dropped in hot fat until it is gold and crackling. This is not a snack to be polite about. It is Groningen's deep-fried pride, and it will burn the roof of your mouth if you do not wait.

A hard-boiled egg, wrapped in thick spiced ragout, breaded, and dropped into hot fat. There is nothing refined about it, and that is the entire point. This is cafetaria food, snackbar heritage, the thing you eat standing at a counter in Groningen with a cold beer and no apology. Gold and crackling on the outside, hot and creamy and savoury on the inside, with a whole egg sitting in the middle like a secret. Do not try to make it elegant. Make it honest, and make it big.

The ragout is the soul of the thing, and the only rule is that it has to be stiff. Butter, onion softened slow and pale, flour cooked out into a roux, then stock added little by little until it goes thick, far thicker than a sauce you would ever pour. Then you season it like the snackbar it comes from: curry powder, sharp Dijon, nutmeg, pepper, and yes, a whisper of Maggi if you want the flavour you actually remember. Cook it down until it almost stands up on its own, then chill it hard, a night if you can. Cold and firm is not optional here. It is the whole game.

Then the patience that separates an eierbal from a deep-fried disaster. Wrap the cold ragout around each egg, big and fully closed, and back into the fridge to firm. Flour, egg, breadcrumb, and do it twice for a crust that holds. Chill again. Only then, the oil at 170, five or six minutes until it is the colour of an old penny. Drain it, and then, this is the hard part, wait. Bite into it straight from the fryer and you will scald the roof of your mouth on a piece of Groningen pride. Coarse mustard on the side. That is not a suggestion, that is the law.

Total time
3 h 12 min
Serves
4 people
Difficulty
3 / 5
Pair with
A cold lager, straight up, and a blob of coarse mustard. This is counter food. Do not overthink it.

Ingredients

  • Eggs & ragout

    • 4eggs
    • 50 gbutter
    • 60 gplain flour
    • 400 mlbeef or chicken stock
    • 1small onion, very finely chopped
    • 1 tspcurry powder
    • 1 tspspicy Dijon mustard
    • 1 tspWorcestershire sauce · optional
    • a pinchnutmeg
    • to tastesalt and black pepper
    • a dashMaggi or stock powder · optional, for snackbar flavour
  • To bread

    • to coatplain flour
    • 2eggs, beaten
    • to coatfine breadcrumbs
  • To fry

    • to frysunflower or frying oil

Method

  1. 1

    Hard-boil the eggs in 8 to 9 minutes. Cool them under cold water, peel carefully, and pat them very dry with kitchen paper. The drier the eggs, the better the ragout grips them.

  2. 2

    Melt the butter over medium heat. Soften the onion gently for 3 to 4 minutes without colouring it. Stir in the flour and cook the roux about 2 minutes, so it loses its raw-flour taste.

  3. 3

    Add the stock little by little, stirring hard, until the ragout thickens. You want it stiff, much thicker than a normal sauce, stiff enough to wrap around an egg and stay there.

  4. 4

    Season with curry powder, Dijon, nutmeg, pepper, salt and, if you like, Worcestershire or a small dash of Maggi. Let it cook gently a few more minutes until thick and stiff, almost like a croquette filling.

  5. 5

    Scrape the ragout into a dish and press cling film directly onto the surface so no skin forms. Cool fully, then chill at least 2 hours, or better, overnight.

  6. 6

    Divide the cold ragout into 4 equal portions. Flatten a portion in your hand, wrap it fully around an egg and shape a big ball with the egg completely covered. Dampen your hands lightly if it sticks.

  7. 7

    Chill the shaped balls 30 minutes to firm up.

  8. 8

    Set up three bowls: flour, beaten egg, breadcrumbs. Roll each ball through the flour, then the egg, then the crumbs. For a sturdier crust, go through the egg and crumbs a second time. Then chill the breaded balls another 30 minutes to 1 hour.

  9. 9

    Heat the oil to 170 °C. Fry the eierballen 1 or 2 at a time for about 5 to 6 minutes, until deep gold and crisp. Drain on kitchen paper and let them rest 2 minutes before serving.

  10. 10

    Serve with plenty of coarse mustard on the side. The Dijon goes in the ragout for flavour; the coarse mustard belongs next to it on the plate. That is how it is done.

TOORN at table

Setting the table

Costa del Sol · Private chef